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Cashew Feni: The heritage drink of Goan tradition
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Wednesday, 26 March, 2025, 14 : 00 PM [IST]
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Krantidip R. Pawar, Vinod T. Atkari & Suresh Kunkalikar
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Cashew (Anacardium occidentale L.) is the third most-produced edible nut globally and serves as a valuable cash crop. The cashew tree is cultivated extensively for its kernel, fruit, nutshell liquid, and other derivatives. The edible portion consists of the cashew nut and the cashew apple. The weight of the cashew apple is approximately 8–10 times that of the nut. In 2023, global cashew apple production reached 1.31 million tonnes, harvested from an estimated 509,716 ha of land. The leading producers of cashew apples during this period were Brazil, Mali, Madagascar, and Guyana.
The cashew tree begins fruiting approximately 4–5 years after planting and maintains productivity for about two decades. The estimated yield of cashew apples is approximately 2 to 2.5 tonnes per acre, with a production ratio roughly seven times the weight of the harvested nuts. Cashew apples have a high moisture content of 86.2% and contain 0.2–0.3% protein, 8–10% sugars (primarily in the form of glucose), along with essential nutrients such as calcium, phosphorus, and ascorbic acid, as well as trace amounts of carotene. The mature cashew apples are rich in vitamin C and sugars. However, the extracted juice is highly susceptible to microbial contamination.
Cashew Fenni
Cashew is not native to India but was introduced to Goa by the Portuguese in the 16th century. Initially cultivated for afforestation and soil conservation, cashew trees quickly became a fundamental part of Goan agriculture. While the cashew nut evolved into a prized export, the resourceful Goans found an innovative way to utilise the cashew apple—fermenting and distilling it into Feni. Over time, the art of Feni-making refined into a time-honoured tradition, passed down through generations.
The Artisanal Process of Feni Production
Cashew apples are not fully utilised due to their intense characteristic flavour. These fruits contain high concentrations of tannins (35%) and anacardic acid, which contribute to their astringent unpleasant biting taste and may cause throat irritation. Consequently, a significant portion of cashew apples remains unutilised during the peak harvest season. However, Goa stands out as the only region where cashew apples are extensively used for the production of ‘Feni,’ a traditionally fermented alcoholic beverage. Over the years, the process of Feni-making has evolved into a refined craft, meticulously preserved and passed down through generations. Feni production occurs between March and May, coinciding with cashew apples' natural ripening and falling. The hydrocarbons, volatile and mineral constituents of cashew feni are ethanol (42.85%), acetic acid, ethyl acetate, acetaldehyde, furfural and copper.
The collected apples undergo a meticulous process:
Collection of fruits: Cashew apples are manually gathered from cultivated lands and stored in stone-lined pits, locally referred to as 'Kolmbis.'
Juice Extraction: The cashew apples are either cut into pieces and processed using a basket press or directly passed through a screw press to extract juice. Traditionally, apples are manually crushed in a stone basin called 'Kolmbi.' The extracted juice, known as 'niro,' is then collected and allowed to ferment naturally for three to four days.
Fermentation: The fermentation of extracted cashew apple juice almost starts immediately due to the presence of naturally occurring yeasts. This microbial activity leads to a gradual increase in temperature, which peaks within three days, indicating the period of fermentation. Monitoring temperature and specific gravity at 12-hour intervals is crucial during this stage. After the third day, fermentation slows, and the temperature stabilises to match ambient conditions. For high-quality Feni production, maintaining a controlled, low-temperature environment and ensuring the proper release of carbon dioxide from the fermentor is essential. During fermentation, fruit pulp accumulates at the surface, forming a cap that restricts gas escape, potentially leading to undesirable flavours. Regularly breaking this cap is necessary to facilitate carbon dioxide release and ensure optimal fermentation. The hexose sugar present in the cashew apple juice is converted into ethyl alcohol during this process.
Distillation: Following the completion of fermentation, distillation is carried out using either traditional or semi-traditional methods. The fermented juice undergoes distillation in traditional pot stills, locally referred to as ‘bhattis.’ A key component in this process is the 'lavni,' an earthen clay pot with a capacity of approximately 2-3 kolso, specifically shaped to facilitate vapor condensation and collection. The cashew Feni vapours enter the lavni, where they undergo cooling and condensation, ultimately forming the final distilled product. This process involves triple distillation, yielding Feni with an alcohol concentration ranging from 42% to 45%.
The distillation process requires technical expertise and careful handling to ensure efficiency and safety. Any excessive force or improper temperature regulation during cooling may cause the lavni to crack or rupture due to high vapor pressure. Trained personnel oversee the entire distillation process, ensuring precision and consistency. The porosity of the clay pot plays a crucial role in enhancing the quality of Feni, allowing controlled interaction between the vapor, external air, and cooling water, which contributes to its distinct aroma and flavour profile.
During distillation, the heated vapor requires continuous cooling, which is achieved by consistently pouring water over the lavni. The manual cooling process, combined with the pot’s porosity, imparts unique sensory characteristics to the distilled Feni, making it superior in taste and smoothness. This method results in a double-distilled product, enhancing its purity and drinkability. The initial distillation produces a liquor known as ‘Todap,’ which has an alcohol strength of approximately 15 to 16 grav. In the subsequent distillation process, around Todap is combined with fermented juice, which is then distilled to obtain Feni with a final strength ranging from 18 to 20 grav. Although the yield from this method is lower, the resulting Feni is of exceptionally high quality. The smoothness and absence of harshness allow it to be enjoyed neat, making it a truly distinguished spirit.
Unique Characteristic of Goan Feni
Feni has a distinct fruity aroma and bold taste with earthy and woody undertones. Feni is entirely organic, as no external yeast or artificial flavours are added. The high-quality product is aged in glass, clay, or wooden containers, enhancing its complex flavours. Feni has been recognised as a Geographical Indication (GI)-tagged product in 2009, ensuring its authenticity and linking it exclusively to Goa. This prestigious status safeguards the heritage and uniqueness of Goan Feni from imitations. In recent years, Feni has gained popularity beyond Goa, appearing in cocktail menus and gourmet recipes.
(Pawar belongs to Goa College of Agriculture, Old Goa, Goa; Atkari belongs to Goa College of Agriculture, Old Goa, Goa; Kunkalikar belongs to Goa College of Agriculture, Old Goa, Goa. They can be reached at kranti61@gmail.com)
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