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Each grape variety offers unique set of primary aromas
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Saturday, 01 September, 2018, 08 : 00 AM [IST]
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Rahil Aga
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Olfactory senses play an important role in food tasting. We breathe in the aroma of food before we get tempted to taste it. While appealing visuals and plating make a huge difference to increase the chances of selecting a dish from the lavish buffet spread, what ticks the list is its aroma.
The heady fragrance of herbs like farm fresh cilantro, basil, thyme, rosemary, cinnamon, peppercorn, curry leaves and dried oregano will amp up the flavour of food. Across centuries, people have not only used local herbs but also wine to cook food; primarily to cover up the strong smell and at times to add newer taste.
French and Italian cuisines
Herb-based aromatic wines have been used by culinary experts, not just for cooking but also for pairing it with food. The origin of using wines in cooking started with French and Italian cuisines. Over the period of time, the usage has percolated to every day cooking for food connoisseurs globally. While one uses wine for cooking and pairing, it’s important to identify the right flavours of wine that adds the taste.
Aromas of wine can be categorised into primary, secondary and tertiary aromas. When made into wine, each grape variety offers a unique set of aromas called primary aromas. From vanilla and apple to soil and chalk, wine flavours can be organised into 3 primary groups: Fruit flavours (e.g., peach, blackberry, raspberry, apple, mandarin, tomato, rhubarb); Herbal flavours (e.g., bell pepper, mint, oregano, bayleaf, thyme, rosemary); Flower flavours (e.g., roses, lavender, iris, geranium, violet, lily).
Sommeliers and experts
Cabernet Sauvignon wines smell like black currants with a degree of bell pepper varying in intensity with climatic conditions, viticulture practices, and vinification techniques. The smell comes from aroma compounds which are found in different levels in varietal wines. Branded as one of the most famous wines among the sommeliers and culinary experts, Cabernet Sauvignon tastes different when produced from different places.
Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux tastes more like the herbal and floral flavours of graphite, violets and tobacco rather than fruit. When you smell a Bordeaux, you will often get hints of black cherries and licorice along with the earthiness. Whereas, Cabernet Sauvignon from New World countries smell of black cherry, licorice and black pepper all wrapped together with a dash of vanilla.
Small group of spices
The herbal wines family is composed of small group of spices, vegetables and menthol notes. Aromas in wines from freshest to most complex could be: mint, basil, pesto, dill, fennel, cilantro, parsley, rosemary, bay leaves, marjoram, oregano, thyme, freshly cut grass, molasses, chamomile, ivy, herbal tea, green tea, earl gray tea, and tomato leaves.
Sauvignon Blanc is the best example of the coastal Chilean valleys that favour the fresh herbal notes. When the vineyards receive the coastal influence of the Casablanca Valley, one can feel notes of basil leaf, while grapes from the Ucúquer Valley will present notes of tomato leaf. The herbal aroma of grapes thus is attributed to the region in which it grows, its soil, salinity and proximity to coastal areas. In addition to the harvesting point of the grapes, winemaking can emphasise herbal notes. The ageing in oak, especially American, highlights the dill.
Pairing wines
The magic behind pairing wines with herbs and spices starts with aroma compounds found in both spices and wine. Many herbs and spices share the same aroma compounds as wine. Comparing black pepper with Syrah wine (also known as Shiraz); both wine and spice contain the spicy-but-floral compound called rotundone. When you match alike flavours together they magnify each other’s property. This type of pairing is called a congruent pairing, a theory behind matching wine with spices and herbs.
When you are cooking a dish that has one or two distinct flavours, think about wines that share those basic taste characteristics. Pinot Noir from Burgundy, is known for having flavours and aromas of mushrooms; it might pair up nicely with a dish that features lots of fresh, sautéed mushrooms. Tangy recipe with a finishing splash of lemon juice might respond well to a wine with citrus flavour like Sauvignon Blanc.
A cream sauce with shrimp will pair well with a buttery Chardonnay. The classic pairing for steak is Cabernet Sauvignon as the wine has a nice tannic structure. Pair herb-brushed steaks with earthy and mineral notes of the wines from Priorat or with notes of crushed raspberries, violets, tea and toasted sage in Nebbiolo wines.
Array of curries
Indian cuisine, however, tends to be intensely flavoured and heavily spiced. Dishes are usually complemented by an array of curries, chutneys, and sauces which create an even more complex flavour profile.
Indian cuisine thus needs wine that is simple to balance out the overall tasting experience. This is the main principle behind pairing wine with Indian cuisine. Wines with simple well-defined flavours are able to create balance with complex Indian cuisine.
Fruity wines
Tomato curry based dishes like chicken masala, vindaloo lamb and vegetable jalfrezi can be paired with fruity wines. Serve cold red wines like pinot noir or rosé wine to complement the red tomatoes of these curry based dishes.
Creamy sauce based dishes like korma, paneer pasanda, butter chicken can be paired with deeper red wines with medium tannin. Wines like Cabernet Franc pair well with creamy Indian dishes as they have subtle brown baking spice flavour and tart fruitiness. Green leafy curries like palak paneer will pair well with white wines and sparkling wines like Sauvignon Blanc.
Our olfactory sense has a powerful memory; notice the aromas in your ingredients as you prepare the dish. One’s acquaintance with herbs and spice fragrances will help pair better wines with food.
(The author is chef-de-cuisine, Courtyard Marriott, Ahmedabad)
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