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Traditional delicacies of Uttarakhand and its future
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Friday, 16 August, 2013, 08 : 00 AM [IST]
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Shardul Nautiyal
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fiogf49gjkf0d Despite the fact that Uttarakhand faced one of the worst natural calamities in the recent past, the hill economy boasts of a rich and delectable legacy ranging from sweets, natural edible oil traditionally extracted from trees and even medicinal juices extracted from flower borne shrubs like Rhododendron which reflects the hill state's rich biodiversity and culture.
Singori/ Ball Mithai Primarily engaged in herd rearing, milch animals were the backbone of the hill economy. In due course, lush green forests also became an integral part of the economy with agriculture in the latter stages of evolution which paved way to traditional delicacies.
Dairy products probably catered to the basic need of primary settlers of hills and other rural areas since time immemorial. Singori or Patvida Mithai came into being by blending concentrated milk and sugar wrapped with Malu Patta (Bauhinia Leaf), also called as "Ball Mithai.”
Ball Mithai (Balled Chocolate) famous in Almora and Champawat is consumed as a dessert which can further be seasoned with sugar balls to make it more delectable. Its same version known as Singori is famous in Tehri Garhwal. Both have a shelf life of minimum 15 days to 30 days under cool temperature. Whereas Singori can easily be distinguished from other traditional sweets by virtue of its herbal packaging, Ball Mithai bears the unique distinction of a local sweet as well with a hard form and texture. It is made by processing milk at higher temperatures for a longer duration to dehydrate it.
Its exclusive chocolate and crispy taste makes it a gift item for foodies, tourists and pilgrims. The attractive and durable packing further renders these sweets exclusivity and thus has become a part and parcel of the global journey towards local gastronomy.
Rhododendron juice or Rhodo-Squash Burans is a broad leaved evergreen tree found in temperate zone ranging from 5,000 feet to 10,000 feet altitude in the hill state. Burans has been accorded the status of a state tree. Though, there are many species of Burans botanically known as Rhododendron, only five species are found in Uttarakhand.
Some species of medicinal value are dwarf and shrubby generally found above 10,000 feet altitude having purple, white, pink and violet flowers. The economic value was attained by Rhododendron arboratum which blossoms with shining red colours on the onset of spring from February onwards and lasts up to May and June based on the altitudes.
Though the trunk of mature Burans tree was of commercial importance in the earlier days when it was used to make cooperages i.e. large to small size wooden pots for storing liquid and solid products, the flowers of Burans, (Rhododendron arboratum) gained its economic importance within the last 20 to 25 years by the name Burans Juice or Rhodo-Squash.
The process of manufacturing juice starts with the plucking of fresh flowers by rural folk especially women. After removing the anthers, the flowers are washed, cleaned and boiled in hot water to be smashed and filtered. Sugar is then mixed along with some preservatives and the juice gets bottled under hygienic conditions. Some individuals, micro enterprises and local NGOs sell it as a branded juice under FPO licence.
Considered to be highly beneficial for heart ailments and stomach disorders, Burans squash is now a popular drink among tourists. Almost all hill districts produce Burans squash up to 5 lakh litre annually which is projected to go up to 50 lakh litres in the coming years by regenerating old Burans stumps and replanting of Burans saplings on a large scale by the initiative of the state government.
Burans squash may be supplemented with Rose squash because of its flowering from the second year onwards and a long spell of blooming from March to June in the hills.
The Indian Butter Tree The Indian Butter Tree commonly known as Chyur, Chyura or Chyuri is botanically known as Aisendra butyracea, Diploknema butyracea and Madhuka butyracea. This tree is found along the sub-Himalayan tract ranging from an altitude of 1000 meter to 1500 meter in mixed forests. This is a large size evergreen broad leaved tree of Mahua (Basia) group which grows on sloppy, boulder soil and warm climate but as of today is restricted to certain pockets of Almora, Nainital, Pithoragarh and Champawat districts in Uttarakhand. In addition, it is found in forests and agricultural wastelands of Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan and has been also reported in Andaman & Nicobar islands.
Leaves of Chyur are used as fodder, stem as timber, branches/twigs as fuel wood and bark as medicine, flowers yield honey and seeds are crushed to extract edible oil which has the unique attribute to solidify as ghee (Butter) at normal temperature. The tree is therefore also known as 'Kalpataru' due to its versatile attributes.
The most important part of the tree is the seed whose kernels contain 70 % oil/fat and is locally known as 'Phulwara Butter’. It is of great commercial value. The edible oil extracted from the seed has the consistency of ghee at normal temperature. Its attributes correspond to that of 'Cocoa Butter' and is also considered to be a substitute for manufacturing chocolate if made available in adequate quantity.
Ointment prepared from it is said to be useful in rheumatic arthritis and has proved to be an effective lotion for sole cracks. Thus the Indian Butter Tree has a very high potential for cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry as well. Though adequate literature is available pertaining to the tree, its distribution is restricted to certain localities. It has also been reported as an extinct species in scientific literature.
Considering the fact that India imports edible oil and Uttarakhand has favourable climatic conditions with adequate wastelands, Indian Butter Tree can be adopted under large -scale afforestation programmes to gain self sufficiency in natural edible oil.
Economics of Indian Butter Tree Assuming one quintal of seeds per mature tree and planting of 20,000 trees annually in 10 hill districts for 10 years, this will translate into one lakh trees in the near future giving yield of one lakh quintals of seeds annually in the 15th year of plantation. Assuming 60, 000 quintals of oil extraction, the present value of oil will be Rs 600 million @ Rs 100 per kg. The future market value can roughly be estimated at Rs 6000 million with price escalation in the near future.
If comparisons are drawn with coconut or palm oil, the practice of generating perennial sources of 'Tree Borne Oil Seeds' instead of annual crops of oil seeds can be carried forward practically keeping in mind the reality that adequate agricultural land is not available in Uttarakhand.
(Excerpts from the upcoming book “Chronicling Uttarakhand Art and Culture” authored by Shardul Nautiyal)
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